Acoustic Guitar Making: How to make Tools, Templates, and Jigs

Acoustic Guitar Making: How to make Tools, Templates, and Jigs

Mr Brian Gary Forbes

Language: English

Pages: 508

ISBN: 149220644X

Format: PDF / Kindle (mobi) / ePub

This book contains everything I wish I knew when I started making acoustic guitars over fifteen years ago. It is not an ABC book, but a companion that teaches many of the things that the other books leave out. In these pages are instructions for making tools, cutting blanks, inlaying exotic woods, and hand finishing guitars. The methods described revolve around doing more with less, and getting more out of the tools already in the shop. For the thrifty guitar maker who would rather build something than buy it, this book is the right choice.
• Over 500 pages of text, with more than 1600 pictures and diagrams to thoroughly and completely explain more than 200 guitar making topics.
• How to use small shop tools to re-saw blanks for guitar making instead of buying them, saving money and expanding wood choice.
• Instructions for almost 50 tools, templates, and jigs that can be made right in the shop, saving thousands of dollars in tool costs. These include an electric side bending iron, fret slot duplicating jig, four different types of clamps, an inexpensive hide glue pot, and more.
• An explanation of the use and abilities of several common shop tools, including several specialty tools that are specific to guitar making.
• A detailed section on guitar making theory, which will expand the understanding of how a guitar works, and how small changes to the structure can have big effects on tone.
• Several step by step guitar making methods that make some of the more difficult processes easier and smoother in the shop.
• How to make inlaying easier by using a few common shop tools, and how to make several different styles of custom inlay.
• Step by step instructions for making a custom soundhole label using a powerful free program called Pixlr, to add the final touch to any guitar.
• A thorough finishing section that teaches anyone how to apply an amazing finish without having to buy expensive spray equipment.
• A guitar making and wood working glossary with thorough definitions and explanations of more than 600 terms.

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and too wide would make it hard to grip in the hand. Most guitars will have a nut width somewhere around 1-3/4", and depending on the plans being used, the measurement may be a little larger or a little smaller. For most guitars, 1-11/16" is the standard measurement at the nut, which is perfect for the vast majority of players. The string spacing at the saddle is the second consideration that needs to be looked at, and most of the time this is around 2-1/8" and up to 2-1/4" depending on the

away from each other. There is no right or wrong amount of holes to drill, though more will mean less trips to the sander. The drill bit needs to be just bigger than the diameter of the cases, and being a little snug is not a bad thing. After the main holes have been drilled, follow through the center of the holes with a small drill bit, going all the way through. This will allow a toothpick or other thin item to be pushed through from behind and pop out the cases. Insert the cut off cases

How adding peg boards around the shop will help keep everything within reach. See here. How to use a piece of string and a pencil to mark a large radius. See here. Using a couple machine screws to help glue the bridge to the soundboard. See here. Using a contrasting piece of wood on the 12th fret for an inlay. See here. How to make perfectly color matched wood fills any time they are needed. See here. An easy alternative to binding the guitar which involves rounding

product be wiped off the surface with a rag. This must be done perpendicular to the grain, so the chance of removing filler from the pores is reduced. Work perpendicular to the grain, mopping up most of the half dried filler. Leave the rest to dry for several hours or overnight, then sand it all level and smooth before finishing. The goal should be to have no filler residue on the surface, and only flat wood with filled pores remaining. If the filler does not recommend wiping away the excess,

the screwdriver to take hold. Screw the feet into the inserts once the slots have been cut in both, in order to test that they fit well and are also lined up straight. If they are a little off, it is not a huge deal. However, a serious angle will need to be fixed. Depending on how bad the feet go through the caul, it may have to be re-made. Insert the screws through the bottom of the bridge and send them through the caul as well. Tighten down the wing nuts and check that the entire

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