Make Your Own Dress Patterns

Make Your Own Dress Patterns

Language: English

Pages: 480

ISBN: 0486452549

Format: PDF / Kindle (mobi) / ePub


"Anyone who can work through the labyrinthian directions for sewing that accompany the commercial pattern can surely learn the comparatively simple and clear rules for pattern making," says nationally acclaimed sewing expert Adele Margolis. Her profusely illustrated primer allows you to create your own fashionable patterns and personalized commercial patterns. You'll learn how to design and execute everything from skirts, dresses, and blouses to sportswear, jackets, and children's clothing. You'll also find tips for: shaping fabric to your figure; mastering the art of flares, flounces, pleats, and tucks; creating fashionable necklines, pretty pockets, stylish sleeves, and much more.
Simple step-by-step directions and more than 1,000 illustrations show how to successfully complete apparel for work, home, and play that reflects your personal style and taste.

Popular Woodworking's Arts & Crafts Furniture: 25 Projects For Every Room In Your Home

Modern One-Block Quilts: 22 Fresh Patchwork Projects

I Love Paper: Paper-Cutting Techniques and Templates for Amazing Toys, Sculptures, Props, and Costumes

Steampunk Style Jewelry: Victorian, Fantasy, and Mechanical Necklaces, Bracelets, and Earrings

Wirework: An Illustrated Guide to the Art of Wire Wrapping

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

bodice-front sloper with the cut-out dart, locate the position of the new shoulder dart. When there is a dart on the back shoulder, it is a fine point in design to match the location of the two. Place the front sloper against the back shoulder. Mark the position of the front shoulder dart. Label the point A (Fig. 48a). 2. Draw the new dart line from shoulder to dart point (Fig. 48a). 3. Slash the dart line. 4. Close part of the original dart; the remaining control is automatically shifted to

neckline is very much a part of the picture. A neckline may be round, square, jewel, oval, bateau, V-shaped, keyhole, scooped, asymmetric, high, low, in between. There are endless variations—enough to cover (or uncover) the endless variety of faces, figures, situations, styles, and moods. The sloper has a “natural” neckline, that is, one that curves around the neck from the hollow between the collarbones in front to the back socket bone. For purposes of pattern construction, no matter how

control to the new position (Figs. 18b and 18d). Fasten with Scotch tape. HOW TO SHIFT THE SLEEVE DART 1. Trace the sleeve sloper. 2. Cut out the tracing and the dart. (Cut a batch of these slopers for future exercises.) 3. Locate the position of the new dart at the wrist (either one third or one fourth of the way up from the back underarm seam). Mark the point A. 4. Draw a slash line from A to the dart point (Fig. 19a). 5. Slash the dart line to the dart point. Start the slashing from

lengthwise. The fold line is the vertical grain line (Fig. 273a). Sometimes sleeves are designed on the bias (Fig. 273b). This may be for purposes of design or for fit. Bias gives easy mobility to a set-in sleeve. It “gives” with every arm motion. Expect the hemline of a bias sleeve to “bell” (gracefully) with time. Use the 45-degree triangle to determine the bias. Fig. 273 THE LONG AND THE SHORT OF IT In a dress a long sleeve ends at or just below the wrist bone. A short sleeve is

and shoulder notches slash line #5 (back)—from the back notch on the cap Fig. 277b When a great deal of circular fullness is to be added, slash lines on the underarm are necessary, too (slashes X and Y). Fig. 277 SLEEVE STYLES WITH CIRCULAR FULLNESS General Procedure 1. Start with the appropriate sloper or sleeve pattern. 2. Draw the necessary slash lines. 3. Slash and spread to the desired fullness at the cap or the wrist. Add the necessary length for puffiness. 4. Trace

Download sample

Download