Make Your Own Dress Patterns
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Simple step-by-step directions and more than 1,000 illustrations show how to successfully complete apparel for work, home, and play that reflects your personal style and taste.
bodice-front sloper with the cut-out dart, locate the position of the new shoulder dart. When there is a dart on the back shoulder, it is a fine point in design to match the location of the two. Place the front sloper against the back shoulder. Mark the position of the front shoulder dart. Label the point A (Fig. 48a). 2. Draw the new dart line from shoulder to dart point (Fig. 48a). 3. Slash the dart line. 4. Close part of the original dart; the remaining control is automatically shifted to
neckline is very much a part of the picture. A neckline may be round, square, jewel, oval, bateau, V-shaped, keyhole, scooped, asymmetric, high, low, in between. There are endless variations—enough to cover (or uncover) the endless variety of faces, figures, situations, styles, and moods. The sloper has a “natural” neckline, that is, one that curves around the neck from the hollow between the collarbones in front to the back socket bone. For purposes of pattern construction, no matter how
control to the new position (Figs. 18b and 18d). Fasten with Scotch tape. HOW TO SHIFT THE SLEEVE DART 1. Trace the sleeve sloper. 2. Cut out the tracing and the dart. (Cut a batch of these slopers for future exercises.) 3. Locate the position of the new dart at the wrist (either one third or one fourth of the way up from the back underarm seam). Mark the point A. 4. Draw a slash line from A to the dart point (Fig. 19a). 5. Slash the dart line to the dart point. Start the slashing from
lengthwise. The fold line is the vertical grain line (Fig. 273a). Sometimes sleeves are designed on the bias (Fig. 273b). This may be for purposes of design or for fit. Bias gives easy mobility to a set-in sleeve. It “gives” with every arm motion. Expect the hemline of a bias sleeve to “bell” (gracefully) with time. Use the 45-degree triangle to determine the bias. Fig. 273 THE LONG AND THE SHORT OF IT In a dress a long sleeve ends at or just below the wrist bone. A short sleeve is
and shoulder notches slash line #5 (back)—from the back notch on the cap Fig. 277b When a great deal of circular fullness is to be added, slash lines on the underarm are necessary, too (slashes X and Y). Fig. 277 SLEEVE STYLES WITH CIRCULAR FULLNESS General Procedure 1. Start with the appropriate sloper or sleeve pattern. 2. Draw the necessary slash lines. 3. Slash and spread to the desired fullness at the cap or the wrist. Add the necessary length for puffiness. 4. Trace