SPQR: Modern Italian Food and Wine
Shelley Lindgren, Matthew Accarrino, Kate Leahy
Format: PDF / Kindle (mobi) / ePub
A cookbook and wine guide celebrating the regional traditions and exciting innovations of modern Italian cooking, from San Francisco's SPQR restaurant.
The Roman Empire was famous for its network of roads. By following the path of these thoroughfares, Shelley Lindgren, wine director and co-owner of the acclaimed San Francisco restaurants A16 and SPQR, and executive chef of SPQR, Matthew Accarrino, explore Central and Northern Italy’s local cuisines and artisanal wines.
Throughout each of the eight featured regions, Accarrino offers not only a modern version of Italian cooking, but also his own take on these constantly evolving regional specialties. Recipes like Fried Rabbit Livers with Pickled Vegetables and Spicy Mayonnaise and Fontina and Mushroom Tortelli with Black Truffle Fonduta are elevated and thoughtful, reflecting Accarrino’s extensive knowledge of traditional Italian food, but also his focus on precision and technique. In addition to recipes, Accarrino elucidates basic kitchen skills like small animal butchery and pasta making, as well as newer techniques like sous vide—all of which are prodigiously illustrated with step-by-step photos.
Shelley Lindgren’s uniquely informed essays on the wines and winemakers of each region reveal the most interesting Italian wines, highlighting overlooked and little-known grapes and producers—and explaining how each reflects the region’s unique history, cultural influences, climate, and terrain. Lindgren, one of the foremost authorities on Italian wine, shares her deep and unparalleled knowledge of Italian wine and winemakers through producer profiles, wine recommendations, and personal observations, making this a necessary addition to any wine-lover’s library.
Brimming with both discovery and tradition, SPQR delivers the best of modern Italian food rooted in the regions, flavors, and history of Italy.
limestone soil and maritime breezes that preserve aromas, the reliable drainage in the vineyards, the collection of idiosyncratic native grapes—are steadily proving that Liguria can make much more than simple vacation quaffs. Great wines are not only a possibility here; they have become a reality. For centuries, Liguria has been a cosmopolitan point of trade within the Mediterranean. Before the Romans arrived, Genoa was an important port for trade among the Phoenicians, Etruscans, and Greeks.
However, his top wine, Le Pergole Torte, is all Sangiovese. Sharp, with dried petals and garnet fruit, it is a complex wine that unfolds gradually over the course of an evening. Southwest of Chianti country is the Brunello di Montalcino zone. Although Montalcino has been inhabited since Etruscan times, the success of its Brunello wine is a modern phenomenon. In the last few decades, interest in Montalcino wines has placed this once-obscure hill town onto the international stage, and Brunello di
a small spoon, scrape out the prickly, fibrous choke from the top of the artichoke. Submerge the artichoke in the acidulated water while you clean the remaining artichokes. Cut 6 to 7 of the cleaned artichokes lengthwise into ¼ to ½ inch slices; leave 1 in the water to shave raw for garnish. In a pot fitted with a steamer basket, pour in the wine, water, verjus, vinegar, and rosemary and bring to a simmer. In a bowl, mix the sliced artichokes with a few drops of olive oil and season with salt
thick-skinned black grapes. Some producers, like Bressan, make Schioppettino wines that resemble Cabernet Franc; others, such as Dorigo, produce it in a style that mimics the black pepper and blackberries of northern Rhône wines. RECOMMENDED PRODUCERS: Bressan, Girolamo Dorigo, Ronco del Gnemiz, Petrussa, Le Vigne di Zamò, Antico Broilo TAZZELENGHE Native to the Colli Orientali, Tazzelenghe’s elevated tannins and acidity are an accurate reflection of its name, which translates to tongue
ramekins and bake for about 18 minutes or until the custard has just set around the sides and is still slightly soft in the center. Grill the bacon until lightly charred, then cut each into 2 or 3 pieces. Meanwhile, bring the braising liquid to a simmer and reduce slightly. Spoon the onion purée in the center of 4 plates. Unmold the sformato and place on top of the purée. Divide the artichokes among the plates and garnish with watercress and grilled bacon. Grate fresh horseradish over the top