The Cognoscenti's Guide to Florence: Shop and Eat like a Florentine
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Shop and eat like a Florentine with this pocket-sized guide to the best of the magnificent Tuscan city known for its art, culture, and cuisine. Celebrated graphic designer and self-described Italophile Louise Fili, with connoisseur of all things Lisa Apatoff, takes you on eight walks through Florence, discussing more than seventy of the city's most alluring shops—some run by the same families for generations, others offering young entrepreneurs' fresh interpretations of traditional techniques.
Discerning travelers will discover rare books and charming hats; vintage Pucci and handmade shoes; cioccolata da bere (drinkable chocolate); colorful buttons; and bolts of rich silk fabric in this enchanting introduction to makers and purveyors of clothing, home decor, accessories, specialty foods, and much more. For each shop, there is a full-color photo, description of specialties, and information on location and hours of operation.
and Japanese techniques. Allow extra time for gift wrapping, which in Salamone’s hands is an art in itself. MERCATO DI SANT’AMBROGIO piazza l. ghiberti mon–sat 7:30am–1:30pm; closed sun The sant’ambrogio market’s intimate scale and excellent produce make it a favorite among every generation of Florentines, who flock each morning to the Piazza Ghiberti with their oversized shopping totes. The bustling outdoor section features tantalizing pyramids of beautifully displayed fruits and vegetables
anything but red. Residential numbers are indicated in black, even though the numbers on the buildings are actually blue, on a white ceramic plate. While the addresses in this guide are shops and hence should be red, this is not always the case. The red and black numbers do not necessarily correspond (i.e., number 57r can be directly across the street from, say, 100r, and next to a black 31). Moreover, examples of “red” numbers styled in black (see below), and vice-versa, are apt to crop up
otherwise you can take away. trattoria da rocco Inside the Mercato di Sant’Ambrogio, Piazza L. Ghiberti 339 8384555 Mon–Sat noon–3pm; closed Sun � Inexpensive Fresh, good, cheap, and fast is what you will find at this simple lunch spot in the bustling market. Primi piatti such as pappa al pomodoro and lasagne alla genovese are priced at four euros; secondi (pollo arrosto, melanzana ripiena) are only five euros. dolci & dolcezze Piazza Beccaria 8r 055 2345458 Tue–Sat 8:30am–8pm; Sun 9am–1pm &
46 La Bottega della Frutta � 82 Pegna � 40 Rivoire � 50 Vestri � 142 dolls & puppets Alice’s Masks Art Studio � 100 Dreoni � 126 fabrics & trimmings Antico Setificio Fiorentino � 174 Merceria Samba � 44 flea market Mercato delle Pulci � 150 flowers & plants Fiorile � 192 I Fiori della Signoria al Portico � 132 Mercato di Sant’Ambrogio � 162 frames & prints & Company � 210 Alinari � 98 Angela Salamone � 160 Maselli � 104 Studio Puck � 190 Tharros Bijoux � 26 gelato Arà � 128 Carabé � 128
lunch Saturday or Sunday. shake caffè Via degli Avelli 2r (east edge of Piazza Santa Maria Novella) 055 295310 7am–8pm daily (until 11pm in Jul & Aug) � Inexpensive A healthy alternative for breakfast or a light meal, Shake Caffè makes refreshing smoothies and juices using fresh fruits and vegetables, and is one of the few caffès to offer rice, soy, and almond milks. Enjoy tasty wraps, salads, pastries, and gelato while sitting outside at no extra charge. shops Penko Ceramiche Ricceri