The Natural Soap Book: Making Herbal and Vegetable-Based Soaps
Susan Miller Cavitch
Format: PDF / Kindle (mobi) / ePub
spatulas Good quality scale (preferably two scales — one measured in grams and one in ounces) Two good quality thermometers (0°−220°F [18°−104°C], quick-read best) Molds (1 wooden tray 25½″x13½″x4″ [64.8 cm × 34.3 cm × 10.2 cm] for a 12-pound [5.45 kg] batch) Heavy-duty waxed paper for lining the trays Masking tape to flatten paper against the sides of the tray Sharp, thin paring knife for cutting and trimming soaps Safety goggles and gloves EQUIPMENT MATERIALS TO AVOID Soap may be
13. Lay the soaps, in a single layer, on plain brown paper grocery bags, or wicker or rattan placemats. Do not use bags imprinted with ink, as the bars are still alkaline and will pick up the dye. Set the bags in a dry, well ventilated room, and do not expose the soaps to temperature extremes. 14. Allow the soaps to continue to cure for four to six weeks, turning them over once to fully expose the other sides. This is an important period, as the soaps become harder and more mild. Wrap as you’d
chunks will melt from the heat within the pan. Pour the heated oils into the olive oil. Should you choose to use natural preservatives (see chapter 7), add the grapefruit seed extract and the tocopherol to the warm fats and oils, mixing thoroughly. Let the oils cool to 80°F (27°C). MAKING THE SOAP 7. As the lye solution approaches 80°F (27°C), gently heat the goat milk to 80°F (27°C), stirring gently and constantly. At this time, be sure that the oils are at 80°F (27°C), so the oils will be
quick setup which makes it hard if not impossible to pour the soap into the frames). Use pure essential oils for a uniform incorporation of product; synthetic fragrance oils are more likely to streak and seize. POURING INTO THE MOLD 11. Once the oils are evenly distributed and the soap mixture is uniform in appearance, quickly pour the soap into the frame without scraping the residue off the sides of the pan. Watery or oily puddles signal a poorly mixed solution and will result in pockets of
just that: it discusses the processing, formulation, and packaging of modern industrial soapmaking, including a discussion of synthetic soaps and the particular bar soaps sold on the market today. None of the book offers practical advice for the cold-process soap-maker. Stanislaus, Ignatius Valerius Stanley. American Soap Maker’s Guide. New York: Henry Carey Baird & Co., Inc., 1928. More like the very old treatises on soapmaking, this book deals primarily with making soaps industrially.